With graduate Shows in full swing, it’s a busy time for staff and students at Chelsea College of Arts. Alongside the Shows, year 2 BA Textile Design students have been working tirelessly with the Textile Design and Sensory Design departments at Mexico City’s Universidad Iberoamericana (IBERO) to deliver a joint project entitled Threads of Mexico. The project, part of student’s responsible design unit, is based around the huipil – a traditional indigenous Mexican garment. Course leader for BA Textile Design, Cecilia Langemar, and senior tutor for textile design, Nicholas Dunn, worked with IBERO to design a brief which tasked students with researching the social and cultural history of the huipil. Students then collaborated to create work that pays homage to the garment.
Students from IBERO started the project in January this year, visiting regions of Mexico where huipil garments are made. These findings were then shared with students at Chelsea College of Arts through a series of online workshops. With support from British textile artist, Hilary Simon, the students produced a series of works which were showcased at the Embassy of Mexico in London from 10 – 13 June. The exhibition was coordinated by Programme Director for Textile Design at Chelsea College of Arts, Caryn Simonson, and co-curated by course leader for Graduate Diploma Textile Design at Chelsea College of Arts, Claire Anderson, and Nicholas Dunn.
Speaking about the Project, H.E. Josefa Gonzalez-Blanco Ortiz-Mena, Ambassador of Mexico to the United Kingdom said:
“Threads of Mexico stands as a testament to the enduring legacy of Mexican textile traditions and the profound impact of cultural exchanges with the United Kingdom in higher education. This esteemed collaboration between Chelsea College of Arts, Universidad Iberoamericana and the Embassy of Mexico in the United Kingdom honours the ancestral Mexican art of the huipil, showcasing the meticulous craftsmanship, and exceptional quality of artisan work. By showcasing these traditional practices through a Mexican-British dialogue between students, the textile industry is being positively influenced towards sustainability and ethical production."
"We are immensely proud and excited about this cultural and academic exchange, which celebrates our rich heritage and the future of design. As Mexicans, we take great pride in presenting this collaboration, which not only honours our traditions but also paves the way for a sustainable and inclusive future in textile design.”
Following the exhibition, students from Chelsea College of Arts will have the opportunity to visit IBERO in September 2024 to learn more about traditional Mexican textiles. This will be supported by UAL’s Global Seed Fund.
We caught up with year 2 BA Textile Design student, Belén Fernández, who told us about their time working on the project.
My name is Belén Fernández and I’m in second year studying BA Textile Design at Chelsea College of Arts.
Threads of Mexico is a collaborative project between Chelsea College of Arts and Universidad Iberoamericana in Mexico City. The project focuses on the huipil garment – a loose-fitting tunic that holds immense cultural and historical value in Mexico. We researched the history of the garment and worked closely with British textile artist Hilary Simon as the project evolved. Discovering the huipil garment allowed me to delve into the rich cultural heritage and storytelling traditions of indigenous communities in Mexico. The intricate designs and vibrant colours of huipils are not only aesthetically pleasing but also convey deep historical and social significance. Learning about the materials and techniques used, as well as the symbolic meanings behind the patterns, has given me a profound appreciation for the artisans who create these garments. This exploration has broadened my understanding of the impact of colonisation on cultural practices and highlighted the resilience and creativity of indigenous people. Overall, it has been a rewarding experience that has deepened my cultural awareness and appreciation.
I undertook an independent design project into the impact of colonialism through examining the Spanish conquest in Mexico, with a focus on storytelling through textile design. I created a 3D "Rebozo" curtain-door, which uses colours and textures inspired by traditional huipils from indigenous communities like San Andrés Larrainzar, to tell a story. The design critically examines the Western influence on colonised cultures, using colours such as reds, greens, and browns to represent community, resilience, and identity, contrasted with whites, blues, and golds to symbolise colonisation. The materials used includes locally sourced cotton, wool, and naturally dyed fibres which highlights the dichotomy between colonisers and the colonised. By incorporating double cloth weaving and warps, the design explores cultural merging, making the piece a powerful statement on the impacts of colonisation and the resilience of indigenous cultures. This work transcends aesthetics, urging viewers to reflect on historical narratives and their present influence, embodying responsible and sustainable design.
Our collaboration with the Embassy of Mexico and Universidad Iberoamericana has been incredibly rewarding and insightful. We've had multiple opportunities to engage with students at Universidad Iberoamericana, giving us firsthand experience of life in Mexico as a young person. This interaction has enriched our understanding of Mexican culture and contemporary issues faced by its youth. Additionally, attending events at the Embassy of Mexico has provided us with a unique platform for cultural exchange and dialogue. These experiences have fostered a deeper connection and appreciation for the cultural and academic landscape of Mexico. This collaboration has been instrumental in broadening our perspectives and enhancing our project.
For my project, I accessed the Harris looms at the Chelsea weave workshops, which allowed me to create a double cloth piece to portray the complexity of the making of a huipil garment. I focused on using key materials, which I borrowed from Chelsea’s yarn store —cotton, silk, and wool— chosen for their historical connection to Mexican colonisation.
We have had many workshops during this project including ‘Accident Training’ with Ania Marchenko and Masha Mombelli, workshops by textile designer Pablo De Francesco and a ‘Zero Waste’ workshop with designer Erin Lewis. But I would say that, for me, the sessions we had with lecturer Amy Orchard-King about cultural appropriation not only allowed me to deepen my understanding on cultures, but it helped me explore and become aware of my positionality when approaching a new project.