The Complete Womenswear Pattern Cutting Short Course
Course description
Course overview
Pattern cutting is a key element of fashion design and manufacture processes. The Complete Womenswear Pattern Cutting Course is designed to introduce students to the use of industry-standard blocks to develop individual and creative patterns.
Through a series of weekly workshop sessions, this practical course offers an overview of traditional and contemporary flat pattern cutting methods. Students learn the pattern manipulation skills that underpin flat pattern cutting and explore the creative possibilities of the technique.
During the course, students learn how to analyse a design to achieve the desired style lines, silhouette and fit. They also gain an insight into how to use specialist equipment, pattern terminology and how to annotate pattern pieces professionally.
The course covers a variety of cutting techniques for a range of garment types from bodices and shirts to skirts, dresses, trousers, and outerwear. Students build a reference file of patterns and produce a selection of shell toiles made to check the accuracy and fit of their patterns.
Who this course is for
This intensive course is aimed at aspiring professionals and ambitious amateur garment makers (all levels welcome). The course is designed to help students build skills and confidence, enabling them to produce patterns for their own designs to a professional standard. The skills acquired during the course can be a step towards setting up your own business or a career in pattern cutting.
Payment plans
This Complete Womenswear Pattern Cutting Short Course is eligible for a payment plan and must fit the following criteria to request:
The course start date must be at least 4 months away from booking
The course fee must be paid in full 4 weeks before course start date
A 50% deposit is due at the time of booking. The remaining balance is divided into 3 monthly payments, payable via Flywire. The course fee is GBP 3,780, 50% of this is due upon booking (GBP 1,890), followed by 3 monthly instalments of GBP 630 per month. Normal UAL Short Course T&Cs apply. Contact ualshortcourses@arts.ac.uk for more information.
Key information
Topics covered
Week 1:
- Introduction to the bodice block
- Dart manipulation, slashing and pivoting methods
- Combination and combined darts
Week 2:
- Shaped darts
- Use of temporary darts
- Asymmetric darts
Week 3:
- Dispersed darts
- Darts into tucks
- Creating seamlines
- Back darts
Week 4:
- Yokes
- Button stands
- Style analysis changing the block silhouette
Week 5:
- Collars, flat and stand, one piece and two piece
- Classic shirt sleeve
- Taking knowledge learnt so far to develop a whole shirt pattern
Week 6:
- Taking knowledge learnt so far to develop a complete shirt pattern
Week 7:
- Neckline options including cutting for strapless styles
- Sleeveless armhole styles
- Facings
Week 8:
- Set in sleeve options
- Slash and spread to create shape and volume
- Dolman sleeve
Week 9:
- Grown on sleeve styles, kimono, raglan etc
Week 10 and 11:
- Jacket block options
- Applying shaping to outer garment block
- Creating collars and lapels applied and grown on
- Developing facing and lining patterns
- Working on the stand to develop style details
Week 12 and 13:
- Skirts, bits and details, waistbands, facings, vents
- Dart manipulation
- Tapering
- Variations of fullness through seam lines
- Variations of circular skirts
Week 14 and 15:
- Trousers: Preparation of trouser blocks, classic trouser, waist finishes and pocket options
- Developing a variety of silhouettes, dropped crotch, peg top, flared, culottes
Week 16 and 17:
- Dresses and jumpsuit
Week 18 and 19:
- A look at different approaches to flat pattern cutting
- Exercises in spiral cutting
- Exercises using one piece and two-piece twists within garments
- A Japanese approach
Week 20:
- The concept of zero waste, a workshop looking at its creative possibilities
Learning outcomes
- Be able to understand and manipulate standard blocks creatively
- Understand issues pertaining to fit
- Be able to apply skills learnt across a variety of garment types
- Develop working, professional standard patterns
- Understand specialist terminology
- Present patterns professionally with correct annotation including seam allowance, grain lines etc.
- Digital badge and certificate of attendance
Materials
Please bring the following materials to the first class:
- Pattern Master
- Paper scissors
- Tape measure
- Dress makers pins
- Tracing wheel
- Awl
- Mechanical pencil (HB .5) or pencils 2H
- Red and blue biros
- Eraser
- Magic tape and/or glue stick
- Notepad
- A3/4 plastic sleeves for pattern storage
Please note that all items are available from Morplan or Amazon.
Tutor
Annie Shellard
Annie Shellard has 30 years of experience working in womenswear as a designer and pattern cutter. Her current professional practise specialisms are lingerie and bridalwear. Annie’s first design job was for a small London based manufacturer and wholesaler. Due to the size and nature of the business, she became skilled in all areas of the design and production processes. This experience has underpinned her approach to working within the industry and in her own businesses. Annie first began her teaching career at London College of Fashion in 2002. She has been teaching at FE and HE levels since that time and became a member of the Higher Education Academy in 2012.
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