LCF24 MA Textiles: Exploring nature’s uncertainty through Yi Zhang’s journey in textile design and sustainable innovation

Ice dyeing, over-dyeing, and tie-dyeing are all techniques that enhance the unpredictability in your work. Can you talk about your process with these methods and how they shaped the final outcome of your collection?

First of all, these techniques are all plant dyeing. I first explored the colors of plant dyeing, such as yellow sunflower, red sapwood and purple comfrey, and explored the colors of the dye solution made by these plants combined with different fabrics, which would help me control the colors after I added ice dyeing and other techniques

Ice Dyeing:

In ice dyeing, ice is placed on the fabric with dye sprinkled over it. As the ice melts, it causes the dye pigments to move and blend in unpredictable ways, creating intricate, water-like patterns. The melting ice introduces randomness that cannot be precisely controlled, which mimics the natural, fluid movement of shadows and light in a forest. The resulting scarves have a delicate, swirling effect that feels both ethereal and grounded in nature, symbolizing the impermanence and constant change found in natural environments.

Over-Dyeing:

Over-dyeing involves adding layers of dye over fabric that has already been colored. Each additional layer enhances the depth of color, creating richer, more complex hues. For my collection, over-dyeing represents the layered complexity of the forest—the way shadows overlap, or how the same landscape can appear differently depending on the light and time of day. Although there is an element of control in choosing which colors to layer, the final result always holds an element of surprise. This unpredictability is central to my exploration of nature’s healing power, where beauty often emerges.

Tie-Dyeing:

Tie-dyeing uses bindings or twists in the fabric to resist the dye in certain areas, creating bold patterns that vary depending on how the fabric is tied. This technique in my collection is used to reflect the organic shapes found in wildflowers, leaves, and vines—where the structured folds of the fabric give way to natural, flowing designs. The contrast between the dyed and resisted areas echoes the contrast of shadows and light filtering through the forest, again reinforcing the theme of natural unpredictability.

Shaping the Final Collection:

Together, these methods bring spontaneity and depth to each scarf, making every piece one-of-a-kind. The final outcomes are shaped by the interplay between intentional design choices and the natural variations that come from these dyeing techniques. Just as no two shadows or wildflowers are exactly the same, no two scarves are identical. This approach beautifully reflects nature’s unpredictability and elegance, deepening the bond between artistic design and the natural world. In the end, these techniques not only highlight the physical beauty of the scarves but also symbolize the deeper themes of embracing uncertainty and finding peace in the ever-changing dynamics of nature.

Do you have any favourite moments or unexpected outcomes from working with natural dyeing techniques that surprised you or pushed your work in a new direction?

There was a moment when I experimented with ice dyeing for the first time. My initial test resulted in sharp, vibrant lines and speckled patterns that really stood out. I believed I could replicate or at least mimic these sharp effects in subsequent attempts.

However, when I tried again, I was surprised to find that the new results were much softer, with more blended transitions. It became clear to me that factors beyond my control, such as the weather or temperature, might have played a role in these unexpected outcomes. This realisation highlighted the natural and spontaneous qualities of working with natural dyes, where even external conditions like the day’s weather can influence the final result. It reminded me to embrace the unpredictability and uniqueness of each piece.

How do you think working with organic materials like wildflowers and natural dyes influenced your relationship with nature during the project?

Working with organic materials like wildflowers and natural dyes deepened my connection with nature throughout the project in several unexpected ways. By directly engaging with these raw elements, I found myself more attuned to the subtle changes in the environment—whether it was the seasonality of the flowers or the way different plant materials reacted to varying dye processes.

The hands-on process made me realise that nature is not only an inspiration but also an active participant in the creative process. Each dye bath or flower press felt like a collaboration between myself and the natural world, and the unpredictability of these materials taught me to embrace the uncontrollable aspects of nature rather than trying to dominate them.

This closer relationship with nature also changed how I viewed my surroundings. I became more aware of the fleeting beauty of wildflowers and the intricate patterns found in leaves and shadows. Working with natural dyes encouraged me to slow down and observe the environment more closely, recognising that every plant carries its own story, color palette, and seasonal rhythm. Ultimately, this project made me appreciate the transience and spontaneity of nature, reflecting these qualities in my work and in my overall approach to design.

Textile design is evolving with more sustainable and experimental techniques. How do you see your work contributing to this growing trend of nature-inspired and eco-friendly design?

As textile design increasingly embraces sustainable and experimental techniques, my work aligns with the growing movement toward nature-inspired and eco-friendly design by focusing on natural dyeing processes, organic materials, and embracing the unpredictability of nature. By using plant-based dyes and materials like wildflowers, I emphasise a return to traditional methods that not only reduce environmental impact but also celebrate the beauty and imperfection found in nature.

Through processes such as eco-dyeing, ice-dyeing, and over-dyeing, I avoid harmful synthetic chemicals and instead work with biodegradable, low-impact resources. This contributes to the reduction of water pollution and toxic waste often associated with conventional textile dyeing. The use of organic materials further enhances the sustainability aspect, as I am engaging with renewable resources that are non-toxic and compostable.

My work actively promotes slow design principles, emphasising the value of craftsmanship, uniqueness, and longer-lasting pieces. Each scarf is hand-dyed and one-of-a-kind, embracing nature's variability, which contrasts with the mass-produced, fast fashion model. By incorporating techniques like monoprinting, which ensures no two pieces are alike, I reinforce the importance of individuality and reducing waste through thoughtful production.

In contributing to the growing trend of nature-inspired design, my work serves as a bridge between traditional artisanal methods and modern sustainability movements. It encourages a deeper connection with the environment while demonstrating that fashion and textiles can be both beautiful and eco-conscious.

Reflecting on your journey through this MA project, how has your design philosophy evolved, and how does your project reflect this growth?

Reflecting on my journey through the MA project, my design philosophy has evolved significantly, becoming more rooted in sustainability, experimentation, and a deeper connection to nature. When I began, my focus was primarily on aesthetics and function. However, through this project, I have embraced a more holistic approach, where the process and materiality of design are just as important as the final outcome. This shift in perspective has allowed me to view design as a dialogue with the environment, emphasising the importance of eco-consciousness and the unpredictable beauty of nature.

My focus has shifted towards creating pieces that tell a story. The themes of shadows and wildflowers in my current collection represent the journey of discovery and uncertainty in both nature and life. This narrative-driven approach, combined with my emphasis on sustainability, illustrates how my work has grown to prioritise not only beauty but also meaning, environmental impact, and the celebration of nature’s inherent unpredictability. This evolution in my design philosophy is a direct result of my time in the MA project, where I have learned to view design as both a personal expression and a way to foster a more thoughtful, sustainable relationship with the world around us.