Active Materials Lab

The Active Materials Lab (AML), established in 2019, explores the intersection of Sustainable by Design (SSbD) principles with spatial and temporal design within the context of textile systems. Our goal is to advance practice-led research that intersects textile design and STEM disciplines, informing new curricula for the School of Design and Technology, London College of Fashion (LCF), and wider UAL.

Our work has shown that the current approach to product design, which is rooted in manipulating substance and energy, results in products whose properties and performance are dictated by the materials and energy invested in their production, use and maintenance. However, biology provides insights into designing with structure and information, opening new avenues where material properties emerge from structure, and functions are intentionally triggered by environmental cues. Essentially, AMS explores spatial and temporal qualities through structured design and information integration.

We explore various forming methods, from traditional craftsmanship to cutting-edge digital techniques, analysing how information embeds within material structures. Our exploration extends beyond the laboratory, encompassing artisanal and industrial practices, from handmade textiles to soft robotics.

Our diverse team includes researchers, scholars, and technical experts from disciplines across the University of the Arts London (UAL), augmented by contributions from Ph.D. candidates and Post-Doctoral Research Assistants. We also collaborate with an international network of design practitioners, enriching our research with diverse perspectives. With inclusivity at our core, we value the insights of all stakeholders, fostering a collaborative environment to advance our research endeavours.

Our aims are to:

• Create new knowledge and understanding in the practice of design for SSbD active material systems and their agency. (Research)
• Identify, develop, and nurture technical and academic capability in this space. (Enhance teaching provision – staff development)
• Develop new cutting-edge curriculum in the areas of design for self- and dis-assembly. (New research-led curriculum development)
• Support UAL’s fashion tech, digital, textile, and craft disciplines to go beyond the state-of-the-art practice. (Research-led teaching)
• Collaborate with students, industry, and other research partners to expand the reach and audience of the work beyond the College. (Knowledge Exchange)

Staff

Dr Mingjing Lin, London College of Fashion (LCF), UAL
Dr Michelle Danjoux (LCF)
Dr Maxi Heitmayer (LCF)
Peter Hill (LCF)
Yosana De Ceita Rodrigues Leal (LCF)
Sean-Henry Fitzsimons (LCF)
Greg Orrom Swan (LCF)
Larisa Blazic (LCF)
Mala Siamptani (LCF)
Alexa Pollman (LCF)
Steph Rolph, Central Saint Martins (CSM), UAL
Claire Anderson, Camberwell College of Arts (CCW), UAL
Nicci James (CCW)
Liz Ciokajlo (CCW)
Laura Knight (CCW)

Research students

Mingseng Ni
Bio-based Materials: the longevity of disposable fast fashion materials match use phase.
V Hoe  
Role of Designer: Engagement of Artisans from Vietnam Within a Dynamic Business Model.
Jessica Saunders
Can a design led waste policy for e-textiles pre-empt and prevent harmful waste resulting from the projected growth of e-textiles?
Alex Salt
Optimisation of formulation and process for bespoke 3-D printed lipsticks.
María José Munguía-Romero
Sustainability preferences in the footwear and fashion industry.
Marie Stendon (Waiting for Viva)
Transient Fashion: A Transdisciplinary Framework for Developing Casein-based Materials within a Regenerative Textiles Economy.
Katie Rees (Completed)
Somatosensory wearable technology in the choreographic process: investigating digital touch in the formation of creative movement and kinaesthetic awareness. Jennifer Poage (Completed)
A Participatory Design Approach to Adaptive and Inclusive Sportswear: Focusing on Consumers with an Upper Limb Impairment or Difference.
Kadian Gosler (Completed)
Smart Bras. Developing an Experience-Centred Bra Wearables Design Process.
Julia Wilmott (Completed: Northumbria University)
Re-fashioning a sustainable classic: A Practice based exploration of the potential for specific wool blends and knitted stitch combinations, to encourage further use of wool fibres in mainstream commercial garments.

Outputs

Walters, K.,and Kapsali, V.(2023) From Boxfish to Twistbox: Developing a Woven Textile Hinge Through Bio-inspired Design, in Tincuta Heinzel, Delia Dumitrescu, Oscar Tomico, Sara Robertson (eds.), Proceedings of Textile Intersections Conference 2023, 20 - 23 September, London, United Kingdom. https://doi.org/10.21606/TI-2023/108
Hall, C., Knight, L., & Kapsali, V. (2023). Creating translational knowledge: The role of visual communication design and prototyping methods in the research process.
https://ualresearchonline.arts.ac.uk/id/eprint/20665/1/EKSIG-Proceedings.pdf
Kapsali, V., & de Oliveira, C. R. (2023). Biomimicry, biomaterials and textiles. In Accelerating Sustainability in Fashion, Clothing and Textiles (pp. 289–298). Routledge.
Kapsali, V., & Hall, C. A. (2023). Bioinspired Textiles; Observations from the Evaluation of a Novel Practice-Based Framework Linking Lessons on Sustainable/Circular Design from Biology to Textile Practice. Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice, 11(1–2), 148–167.
Kapsali, & Hall, C. (2022). Sustainable approaches to textile design: Lessons from biology. DRS2022, Bilbao.
https://doi.org/10.21606/drs.2022.199
Kapsali, V. (2022). All things bio: A conceptual domain-based approach to mapping practice within the landscape of biologically informed disciplines. The Design Journal, 25(4), 516–536. https://doi.org/10.1080/14606925.2022.2058449
Kapsali, V. (2022). Method of mapping interdisciplinary research and practice at the intersection of biology and design. DRS2022, Bilbao. https://doi.org/10.21606/drs.2022.150
Auerbach George, H., Stenton, M., Kapsali, V., Blackburn, R. S., & Houghton, J. A. (2022). Referencing Historical Practices and Emergent Technologies in the Future Development of Sustainable Textiles: A Case Study Exploring “Ardil”, a UK-Based Regenerated Protein Fibre. Sustainability, 14(14), 8414. https://doi.org/10.3390/su14148414
George, H. A., Tregenza, L., Stenton, M., Kapsali, V., Blackburn, R. S., & Houghton, J. A. (2023). Challenging perceptions of fast and slow in contemporary fashion: A review of the paper dresses trend in the United Kingdom and the United States during the 1960s. International Journal of Sustainable Fashion &\mathsemicolon Textiles, 2(1), 29–52.
https://doi.org/10.1386/sft_00019_1
Stenton, M., Houghton, J. A., Kapsali, V., & Blackburn, R. S. (2021). The Potential for Regenerated Protein Fibres within a Circular Economy: Lessons from the Past Can Inform Sustainable Innovation in the Textiles Industry. Sustainability, 13(4), 2328. https://doi.org/10.3390/su13042328
Stenton, M., Kapsali, V., Blackburn, R. S., & Houghton, J. A. (2021). From Clothing Rations to Fast Fashion: Utilising Regenerated Protein Fibres to Alleviate Pressures on Mass Production. Energies, 14(18), 5654. https://doi.org/10.3390/en14185654
Kapsali, V., & Vincent, J. (2020). From a Pinecone to Design of an Active Textile. Biomimetics, 5(4), 52.
https://doi.org/10.3390/biomimetics5040052
Kapsali, V. (2016). Biomimetics for Designers. Thames and Hudson. London

How to get involved

Please contact the hub leads or lcfresearch@arts.ac.uk.

Who is this lab for?

The Active Materials Lab welcomes a diverse range of individuals and organisations interested in pioneering Sustainable by Design research within textile-based material systems. Researchers, academics, and students in fields such as material science, soft robotics, design, and sustainability can explore innovative approaches and collaborate on groundbreaking projects. Industry professionals in textile manufacturing and fashion design can gain insights into sustainable practices and contribute to industry advancements. Environmentalists, policymakers, and international collaborators are also invited to engage with the lab's work, fostering a collaborative environment to advance sustainable solutions for the textile industry.

Who is the point of contact?

Lead: Veronica Kapsali